jayper wrote:Getting ready to frame up some of my 24x36's and due to wall space limitations, I was planning to use standard 24x36 frames with no matting.
I planned to use:
- acid free foam core
Should I be mounting the prints to the foam core?
If so, are corners or strips preferred with prints that size?
If corners, how big should they be?
My assumption is that I do not need to use corners or strips. If true, what is the safest way to assemble the frame so that the print doesn't buckle or crease when laying it in on top of the spacers?
Apologies if these questions have already been answered, but I just wanted to talk it out to be sure.
I greatly appreciate the assistance,
Sounds like you have it pretty much together with the spacer & AF foam backing.
This is how I do it in my shop. I make the whole frame exactly 1/8" (1/16" on all sides) larger than the print. Reason for the 1/8" larger instead of 1/4" is the print has to set on the spacer and if you give it more than 1/16" on all sides it will drop in against the glass. If you give it less than the 1/16" on all sides you won't have room for normal expansion and contraction due to the climate causing the print my start bunching up (waving). Personally I like the Econo Space - it is a hollow plastic spacer tube. The reason I like this spacer is because there is a little flex to the spacer because of it being hollow. The solid plastic spacer doesn't flex/give and it may cause the print to be held too tightly causing bunching up (waving) during the expansion and contraction process of paper. Lay the glass inside the frame and carefully measure the spacer cutting all 4 side to fit the glass exactly. Attach the spacer to the glass and burnish the spacer for a good hold. Carefully lay the print onto the adhesive free
side of the spacer - remember - no adhesive on the print
- the adhesive side of the spacer is stuck to the glass. I then carefully lay the AF foam core onto the print - I do not attach the print,
I want the print to have room to expand and contract. I use a point driver to hold the foam core in place, BUT VERY IMPORTANT, place 4 ply mat board spacer between the point driver and the foam core when driving the points. Remove the mat board as you go leaving a little space between the point and the foam core. Using the mat board as a spacer between the foam core and the point driver is to assure that the foam core is not too tight against the print, again the print has to have room to move. I drive points about every 4 to 6 inches. Attach the dust cover and hanging system and you are ready to hang it.
Anyway, this is how I do it in my shop, I'm sure you will get other recommendations which may also work just fine. This is how I do mine and it is tried and true and works nicely if you follow these steps. I hopes this helps.
Joe - JB Picture Framing Studio