I guess they advertise the "dry to touch" time, but for sensitive art it is best to wait for a full cure. I'm in no rush, so I can let it sit a while. Luckily, we will be having great temperatures this coming week so I can let it sit in my garage and cure. I've baked painted metal parts before at ~200F. Cures really fast, but I'd be afraid the wood would warp or sap would weep.JBFrame wrote:Milligan, rag mat spacers are perfect. The smell test is a rule of thumb and should work for most paints - if you can't smell it then it is more than likely cured or mostly cured.
Krylon says that for their spray paint it take between 15-30 days for a full cure and that is dependent upon the humidity & temperature. Also, there may be a few additional days for the propellant but I wouldn't be able to answer that because I don't have the specs for the product you are using. I don't really know much about their brush on products.
Framing Help/Advice Thread
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Cinlabyrinth
- Art Expert
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- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 12:48 pm
- Location: Houston
so when framing with spacers in lieu of mats, what's the preferred method of keeping your print positioned right? Mounting it to the backing board somehow? Or does the print sit against the spacers without being mounted to the backing board? Can a large print handle that? I've been searching spacers and backing board and mount print and I've seen some things but not specifically this. sorry if it's rehashing old stuff. I've googled some things but most are a few years old and many mention methods that seem kind of questionable.
A lot depends upon the quality of the print paper and the type of frame. If you have a really heavy weight paper for the print and if it is nice and flat you can just lay it in on either plastic or rag mat spacers. I do not recommend metal frames with this method but then again I'm not a fan of metal frames. If the print poster is the really light weight paper it is best to hinge the top in a couple of position to hold it in place. Be careful how you insert your points or nails that hold the backing. You do not want a lot of pressure on the print. I recommend leaving enough room with the points or nails so the backing will move slightly. If you put to much pressure onto the backing it could cause the print to buckle or get wavy with the changes of temperature and humidity. When I have to use a metal frame I never use the springs. If you use the spring it could put to much pressure on the 10 plus positions and again could cause buckling or waving in the print. I use mat board pieces cut to size and glued into place in exchange for the springs with metal frames.Cinlabyrinth wrote:so when framing with spacers in lieu of mats, what's the preferred method of keeping your print positioned right? Mounting it to the backing board somehow? Or does the print sit against the spacers without being mounted to the backing board? Can a large print handle that? I've been searching spacers and backing board and mount print and I've seen some things but not specifically this. sorry if it's rehashing old stuff. I've googled some things but most are a few years old and many mention methods that seem kind of questionable.
I don't have quick access to UV glass or acrylic in my area, so I've been looking at alternatives. I have an Ace Hardware 1/2mi away from my house, so it is incredibly tempting to buy normal window pane glass for framing especially since it is $9.99 for a 24x36in piece and they cut for free. I want the UV protection though, so I stumbled upon UV filtering films that can be applied to glass. It is mainly used for store fronts and skylights, but the reviews have said that it is crystal clear and blocks 99% of UV. I found a 30"x6.5ft roll on amazon for $20 shipped and thought I'd give it a go. Hopefully it works out because museum glass is 8x more expensive than the window glass. My concerns would be keeping the clarity and hopefully the film does not outgas.
Have any of you heard of people using UV films on normal glass instead of paying the Tru Vue price?
Have any of you heard of people using UV films on normal glass instead of paying the Tru Vue price?
That sounds like a terrible idea. Why not just order some UV acrylic from American Frame or Frame Destination?
"I see dudes using cotton gloves on prints that I know were printed while someone was drinking a beer or eating Cheetos, while water leaked from the ceiling. And I'm not even talking about my shop!" - alexfugazi
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FramerDave
- Art Connoisseur
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- Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:25 pm
- Location: Houston
A few things:
The glass used for windows like you'd find at a hardware store is not framing grade. Obviously. So it will likely have much more of a green tint and more flaws than glass made for picture framing.
Second, I honestly don't know how it will work out because I've never known anyone to try it. Seems like the time and hassle would far outweigh any cost savings. Where in the world are you that you can't get proper glass or acrylic? Even by ordering online?
Finally your cost comparison of the film/glass combination vs. Museum Glass doesn't make a lot of sense. You may get UV protection (assuming everything works our right) but you will not get the anti-reflective properties of Museum Glass. You'd get a much more fair comparison by looking at it vs. Conservation Clear glass.
The glass used for windows like you'd find at a hardware store is not framing grade. Obviously. So it will likely have much more of a green tint and more flaws than glass made for picture framing.
Second, I honestly don't know how it will work out because I've never known anyone to try it. Seems like the time and hassle would far outweigh any cost savings. Where in the world are you that you can't get proper glass or acrylic? Even by ordering online?
Finally your cost comparison of the film/glass combination vs. Museum Glass doesn't make a lot of sense. You may get UV protection (assuming everything works our right) but you will not get the anti-reflective properties of Museum Glass. You'd get a much more fair comparison by looking at it vs. Conservation Clear glass.
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jamesgunter
- Art Expert
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- Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:00 am
- Location: Birmingham, Al
- Contact:
whats the mat size?
The last time I got something from there, you couldn't go over 38" outer dimension. If you want to keep that mat width, can you just alter the window size smaller to cover a little more of the border?soam24 wrote:the print is 12 x 36 so what 14 1/8 x 38 1/8?jamesgunter wrote:whats the mat size?
sorry don't remember the numbers right now
"I see dudes using cotton gloves on prints that I know were printed while someone was drinking a beer or eating Cheetos, while water leaked from the ceiling. And I'm not even talking about my shop!" - alexfugazi
KSUvet wrote:That sounds like a terrible idea.
Diverse crowd herexjmjx wrote:Good question, I'm curious as to what others say about this.
I could order UV acrylic online. I haven't found a good place to get UV glass other than ebay. I live in the midwest. The closest Hobby Lobby is 1hr each way. I'm trying to frame enough prints to fill my house (probably going to be around 25-30) in a timely manner, so I'm tackling about 1-2 per weekend. Going all museum on everything would cost several thousand. I'm trying to come up with a decent way to frame them so they are at least protected and leave the higher quality glass to the more expensive pieces.FramerDave wrote:A few things:
The glass used for windows like you'd find at a hardware store is not framing grade. Obviously. So it will likely have much more of a green tint and more flaws than glass made for picture framing.
Second, I honestly don't know how it will work out because I've never known anyone to try it. Seems like the time and hassle would far outweigh any cost savings. Where in the world are you that you can't get proper glass or acrylic? Even by ordering online?
Finally your cost comparison of the film/glass combination vs. Museum Glass doesn't make a lot of sense. You may get UV protection (assuming everything works our right) but you will not get the anti-reflective properties of Museum Glass. You'd get a much more fair comparison by looking at it vs. Conservation Clear glass.
I'm going to phone HL tomorrow to see if they carry conservation glass. I priced museum there before and they wanted $80 for a 18x28 piece. I have a few pieces that need to be 40in in one dimension, so the price goes way up on those. If the conservation is more in the $30-40 range then that is totally doable. I'm curious to know if their 40% off coupon works on uncut glass...
Thanks for the suggestions.
The anti-glare/UV acrylic from frame destination doesn't seem too pricey. I'll have to order one for a frame and see how it looks. Thanks.KSUvet wrote:Why not just order some UV acrylic from American Frame or Frame Destination?
KSUvet wrote:The last time I got something from there, you couldn't go over 38" outer dimension. If you want to keep that mat width, can you just alter the window size smaller to cover a little more of the border?soam24 wrote:the print is 12 x 36 so what 14 1/8 x 38 1/8?jamesgunter wrote:whats the mat size?
sorry don't remember the numbers right now
I think that's what the issue is yes. probably will just have to go a tad smaller unfortunately.
Crescent mat comes in 40"x32". The ragmat in that size is roughly $15, so you could probably get it cut locally cheaply. I just framed a 12x36 JCR and used 16x40 outside dimension for my mat.soam24 wrote:KSUvet wrote:The last time I got something from there, you couldn't go over 38" outer dimension. If you want to keep that mat width, can you just alter the window size smaller to cover a little more of the border?soam24 wrote:the print is 12 x 36 so what 14 1/8 x 38 1/8?jamesgunter wrote:whats the mat size?
sorry don't remember the numbers right now
I think that's what the issue is yes. probably will just have to go a tad smaller unfortunately.