Hobby Lobby carries Tru Vue glazing products which are good quality - I buy all my glass from Hobby Lobby with 40% off coupon. Their mats are fine as long as you pick an acid free one. No need to be hesitant about the products they sell - just be hesitant about letting them frame your stuff because not all of the people who work there are properly trained in how to handle and conserve valuable prints.blase wrote:This was probably asked before but I haven't been able to find an answer. I'm attempting to frame a large, expensive print for he first time and don't want t mess it up. Is hobby lobby glass and mat ok to use? I'm fairly confident I can put it together myself but not sure about ordering mat online as it's hard to tell the color/look. Is the mat HL sells of good quality for long term conservation or should I not trust them. I got a quote for museum glass of $130 for 40"x25" and could use their 40% off. I'm wondering if it's worth it to get the glass from them even if I take it to a framer for the mat and assembly ( already have the frame).
Framing Help/Advice Thread
- shredkeenan
- Art Connoisseur
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blase, since you asked about mats, there are "acid free" mats which have acidic materials but have had "buffers" added to counteract the acidity and then there are "rag" mats which are made with 100% cotton rag and include no acidic materials. If you ask for a "rag" mat you should have high confidence it's the better product and a whole 30x40 sheet usually only costs around $12-16. The "acid free" variety are usually a little cheaper, $7-$10. I just stick with the cotton "rag" mats and figure you can't go wrong since the incremental cost is so low. I would use "acid free" conservation mats to frame a Wal Mart litho poster or something of no value.shredkeenan wrote:Hobby Lobby carries Tru Vue glazing products which are good quality - I buy all my glass from Hobby Lobby with 40% off coupon. Their mats are fine as long as you pick an acid free one. No need to be hesitant about the products they sell - just be hesitant about letting them frame your stuff because not all of the people who work there are properly trained in how to handle and conserve valuable prints.blase wrote:This was probably asked before but I haven't been able to find an answer. I'm attempting to frame a large, expensive print for he first time and don't want t mess it up. Is hobby lobby glass and mat ok to use? I'm fairly confident I can put it together myself but not sure about ordering mat online as it's hard to tell the color/look. Is the mat HL sells of good quality for long term conservation or should I not trust them. I got a quote for museum glass of $130 for 40"x25" and could use their 40% off. I'm wondering if it's worth it to get the glass from them even if I take it to a framer for the mat and assembly ( already have the frame).
- gwelymernans
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Any ideas on how to frame a print without any borders? As in the artwork extends to the edge of the print - there is no border around the artwork itself. The frame or mat would be block at least an 1/8 inch of art all around the print. Is it acceptable to float something like this?
- iwokeinrelief
- Art Expert
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- Location: DALLAS
Yeah, it basically requires it.gwelymernans wrote:Any ideas on how to frame a print without any borders? As in the artwork extends to the edge of the print - there is no border around the artwork itself. The frame or mat would be block at least an 1/8 inch of art all around the print. Is it acceptable to float something like this?
- coffeeemug
- Art Enthusiast
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- Location: California
Shadow box framing! If you don't mind the edge of the print showing, it works great! I would highly recommend. This is an example of doing thatgwelymernans wrote:Any ideas on how to frame a print without any borders? As in the artwork extends to the edge of the print - there is no border around the artwork itself. The frame or mat would be block at least an 1/8 inch of art all around the print. Is it acceptable to float something like this?
trying to float two print like this in a glass trap- http://i.imgur.com/tF2yB31.jpg (red1984's frames).
would it be best to use v-hinges on the top and bottom of a matboard the same size as the print(36x24 prints)? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rEiuYy_0Ik
any advice would be appreciated, local frame shop only offers drymounting D:
would also appreciate any input on going with black frames vs red (akira stout) / light blue (gits ansin)
would it be best to use v-hinges on the top and bottom of a matboard the same size as the print(36x24 prints)? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rEiuYy_0Ik
any advice would be appreciated, local frame shop only offers drymounting D:
would also appreciate any input on going with black frames vs red (akira stout) / light blue (gits ansin)
Just got my Paolo Rivera Guardians of the Galaxy variant in, and it's my first poster. I've been reading the thread and there are a lot of good options, but I'm not sure what the best route is? I just want it in a nice frame, and protected from the elements as much as possible. What would the best mounting option be?
Not that it helps if the print has no border at all, but I thought most all frames have a lip that overhangs 1/4" on each side (not 1/8").gwelymernans wrote:Any ideas on how to frame a print without any borders? As in the artwork extends to the edge of the print - there is no border around the artwork itself. The frame or mat would be block at least an 1/8 inch of art all around the print. Is it acceptable to float something like this?
I'm trying to figure out framing a print that has maybe 1/8" border (if that) without covering up much of the print, especially since it is signed/numbered and a 1/4" overhang would cover up part of the bottom of the number and signature. In that case, without getting into more fancy things like floating, is it fine just to order a frame that is 1/8" wider (like 18 1/8" x 24 1/8") to offset that or is it likely the print will end up shifting once it is on the wall?
- jamesgunter
- Art Expert
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suede or linen mat color / number for the best 'Poker Table' green? Thanks
I took apart something I received from a family member with an eye toward having it reframed. The sticker on the back of the frame said "Frame Masters." The backing used was cardboard. Nice touch. The crazy thing was that the cardboard backing was held in by 1" finishing nails driven into the side of the frame through the cardboard. Anyone ever seen that before?
Separately, it looks like they are float framing tree bark in the diagrams below:
Separately, it looks like they are float framing tree bark in the diagrams below:
gwelymernans wrote:Something like
or
?
NEWPORTS69 wrote:ive kept journal for very long time and ranked public restrooms because i srs hate using them, was working on an app but im not very smart
- peacedog
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I think it's Crescent 5500, green suede. I looked it up yesterday, seen a lot of numbers since then. I think that's right.jamesgunter wrote:suede or linen mat color / number for the best 'Poker Table' green? Thanks
Quite common in older stuff we're reframing. An alternative to the point drivers most framers use now is a pair of specialty pliers that sets a nail instead. More hobbyists use them. But hard to argue with a sticker.jjttdw wrote:I took apart something I received from a family member with an eye toward having it reframed. The sticker on the back of the frame said "Frame Masters." The backing used was cardboard. Nice touch. The crazy thing was that the cardboard backing was held in by 1" finishing nails driven into the side of the frame through the cardboard. Anyone ever seen that before?
simply overwhelmed by all the information. Going pretty basic looking for some help. Anybody know the best place (austin area) to get premade frames. Doesn't have to be super fancy picking up my kid sis a couple of the Moss Harry Potter book cover prints off Pottermore and they are advertised as 18 x 24. Could I swap out the glass for Uv Plexi? Where do I get that? Thanks for any help.
Luls. I was wondering if it was just me who was wondering wtf they were supposed to be framing.jjttdw wrote: Separately, it looks like they are float framing tree bark in the diagrams below:
gwelymernans wrote:Something like
or
?
RupertPupkin wrote:I live by this rule and this rule alone: people are drymounting idiots.