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Floating a Print
Thanks for showing!
Hey Chris great info.
I was wondering. Iv'e used "self adhesive hanging tissue" to attach to prints.
To try to make things eaiser. It's acid free , non yellowing and reversible (although I never tried)
What do you think of the commercial "tapes"? Is there a reason you make your own paste?
Your knowledge and opinion are greatly appreciated.
I was wondering. Iv'e used "self adhesive hanging tissue" to attach to prints.
To try to make things eaiser. It's acid free , non yellowing and reversible (although I never tried)
What do you think of the commercial "tapes"? Is there a reason you make your own paste?
Your knowledge and opinion are greatly appreciated.
"Lay off Detroit, Them peoples is living in Mad Max times." Moe Szyslak
All those commercial hinging methods work well and do what they are supposed to do and they are reversible to a certain degree (some work better than others). And some people question how well they do over long periods of time. The wheat paste method has been the method used for ages because it is completely neutral. and extremely easy to reverse. It also provides a very strong bond. The mulberry paper is almost translucent and just and the wheat paste will completely lose it's bond with the slightest bit of moisture. I've had instances where I've removed old linen hinges and no matter how careful I was there was residue left behind or some of paper loss in the process. I've never had that problem with Japanese hinging papers and wheat paste. And I've had instance where I'm removing hinges that are decades old. It's a proven method that has worked so museums and paper conservationist have stuck with it.trarex wrote:Hey Chris great info.
I was wondering. Iv'e used "self adhesive hanging tissue" to attach to prints.
To try to make things eaiser. It's acid free , non yellowing and reversible (although I never tried)
What do you think of the commercial "tapes"? Is there a reason you make your own paste?
Your knowledge and opinion are greatly appreciated.
If I brush the hinges with a moist Q-tip the bond will break and you won't see any residue left behind. It's completely reversible.haven wrote:Great thread CHR1S, very helpful and I dig those simple style frames.
A question on the wheat starch. What's the process for removing those hinges and does removing them leave signs that they were there?
You're right most hinging is done by gluing to the front of the board. The slits are typically done with larger prints because you can hold more weight with that method. When I float a print II prefer doing that method because even though it's a little more work and takes more time I think it's easier.haven wrote:Good to know. And is cutting the slit in the backing board how most hinging is done? I think I always assumed it was just glued to the front of the board, but I can see where having it on the back would make for a stronger hold.
