Floating a Print

Share your pictures of framed art and discuss framing.

Postby cccp80over on Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:37 pm

Congrats, codefish
Practice makes it perfect!
I did one of my prints this weekend that was long overdue (pics to come soon), plus waiting on some parts (glass + print) to start on my epic project (mounting a 30'' X 40'' print).
Oh boy, what did i sign up for? :D :D :D
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Postby saL on Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:28 am

ok, I tried The Lineco Museum Mounting Kit once, and the result wasn't that great.. so, recently I ordered these 2 products:

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but after reading about them once again here on the board, Im not sure if I still wanna use em?!...

the questions are:

1) what is so bad about these 2 tapes!? .. I mean, do we KNOW that they will damage the print, or they MIGHT damage it?!.. also, if they will damage, do we talk about after a week, or after 10+ years!?

2) do you think they would affect the Murakami print (which are printed on some sort of foil instead of paper)?

Thanks everyone in the thread for sharing their methods, opinions, and experiences!
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Postby summoner on Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:32 am

I have used the ABACA.SA tape, and have found that the adhesive that is on the tape is VERY light, and allows you to roll the tape off easily. I remounted a print that I used this tape on about 3 months after I originally mounted it and the tape came off clean, and just like it was first put on.

I can't speak for the other, nor the paper that you are putting it on, but for standard cotton paper I have had no trouble.
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Postby saL on Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:26 pm

summoner wrote:I have used the ABACA.SA tape, and have found that the adhesive that is on the tape is VERY light, and allows you to roll the tape off easily. I remounted a print that I used this tape on about 3 months after I originally mounted it and the tape came off clean, and just like it was first put on.

I can't speak for the other, nor the paper that you are putting it on, but for standard cotton paper I have had no trouble.


this is something I was hoping to hear :)

if anyone has any other opinions or suggestions, please do share..
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Postby misterwhisper on Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:52 pm

saL wrote:ok, I tried The Lineco Museum Mounting Kit once, and the result wasn't that great...


Sorry to hear that... what was the problem? I've been using it quite a bit lately and haven't had any problems at all, even with my most recent piece, a big pedestal-mounted 18x24 that has so much paint that the paper was a bit saturated and warped and noticeably heaver than a normal print.

Waiting96HPM.JPG
Waiting96HPM.JPG (81.26 KiB) Viewed 2314 times
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Postby mazdog on Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:50 pm

The lineco gummed taped above it quite gummed and personally I would be hesitant to use it on anything with decent value. Lineco's 'Japanese" hinges tape (exact name escapes me at the moment) is great, lightly gummed, plenty strong and i have safely and cleanly removed it from a couple pieces now.

I like the sounds of that ABACA.SA one above, will definitely try that one some time.
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Postby saL on Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:39 am

misterwhisper wrote:Sorry to hear that... what was the problem?


well, it was the amount of water in the wheat starch OR the amount I applied on the hinges.. it made the paper wet and that made it ripple... also, seeing it's so "fibery", Im quite skeptic about how easy it is to take it off if needed one day...

also, I was wondering if it's necessary to strain the paste?...
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Postby summoner on Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:48 am

I have also used this and can say that it removed just as easy as the other after bring applied over time. The tissue has a light tack, again just enough to hold, and rolls off easily. The paper is also thin, but is not fibrous.. if you use scissors to cut the tape which I did.

http://www.utrechtart.com/Lineco-Self-Adhesive-Hinging-Tissue-Paper-Tape--Neutral-pH--1-in-x-35-feet-MP37812-i1015473.utrecht

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Postby misterwhisper on Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:36 pm

saL wrote:well, it was the amount of water in the wheat starch OR the amount I applied on the hinges.. it made the paper wet and that made it ripple...


Ugh. That's called "cockling," and it's a potential hazard with wheat pastes. It happens when the paste mixture is too watery for the artwork. You avoid it by letting your paste mixture "set" -- that is, dry a bit -- before you apply it to the artwork. Until you're familiar with the mixture, the way to find the correct setting time and avoid cockling the paper is a bit tedious:

1. Mix a batch of paste, and find a piece of scrap paper similar to or the same as your artwork.
2. prepare (tear) about a half-dozen hinges in the size you intend to use.
3. When the paste cools, brush it onto the ALL of the hinges, using as little paste as possible. Attach ONLY ONE hinge to the scrap paper, blot and weight as per the instructions.
4. As it cools, the paste will continue to thicken, so attach the rest of the pasted hinges in two-minute intervals, marking each one so you know how long the glue has set. Blot, weight, and let dry.
5. After they've tried, check all the hinges. The ones with the smallest amount of set time, the wettest, will probably have cockled the paper. The ones with the longest set time, the driest, will probably have the weakest bond. Look for hinge that has achieved the strongest bond without cockling -- that's the proper amount of setting time to use.

After you've mounted a few pieces, you'll develop a "feel" for the mixture and set times.

saL wrote: also, seeing it's so "fibery", Im quite skeptic about how easy it is to take it off if needed one day...


The fibers run one direction, which allows you to "shear" them off by peeling them down after re-activating the paste -- in theory, anyway. I've never personally removed hinges, nor would I recommend trying it unless you're selling the artwork. In any other case, just leave the old hinges and mount new ones on top of 'em.

Keep in mind that your hinges should be the weakest link in your mounting system; you always want them to tear before your artwork does. That's one of the reasons why mulberry hinges are so "fibery;" it's also one of the reasons why I'm a little skeptical of the abaca tape, which seems to be designed for photopaper applications and touts its great strength and strong adhesive.

saL wrote:also, I was wondering if it's necessary to strain the paste?...


I wonder about this myself. I've done it both ways, and frankly haven't noticed any difference when I don't strain.
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Postby saL on Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:55 pm

thanks for all the tips misterwhisper!

I didnt try the entire procedure as you described, but I did test my paste and everything on a scrap paper, and must say Im a happy owner of float mounted You & Me print by Steve Powers! :) .. I did mess up things a bit with building spacers, but I guess things will settle with some practice.. it's night here, so I'll hopefully snap some photos tomorrow and share em with you..

thanks once again everyone!
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Postby electrachrome on Fri May 17, 2013 11:14 am

bump
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Postby soam24 on Fri May 17, 2013 11:15 am

mt
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Postby churdiales on Sun Aug 18, 2013 2:00 pm

bump
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krisjay wrote:I find this post odd.

Postby Kazden on Fri Jan 10, 2014 1:34 pm

awesome read... this deserves another bump. I know I'll have questions later and hope some people are still around to help!
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Image THC!

Postby jjttdw on Fri Jan 10, 2014 3:07 pm

Kazden wrote:awesome read... this deserves another bump. I know I'll have questions later and hope some people are still around to help!


Thanks for bumping this Kazden....it is indeed an awesome read. I frame a bunch of my own stuff, now I can try to float something.
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