Thanks Chris for this awesome thread! On the website did you choose profile 115 for your frame choice/floating example? Once you pick the frame profile you just go through the tabs on top for the accessories and it will be correct for the frame size? Just curious, do you do 100% acid free archival? Even for the backing board?CHR1S wrote:No I order most of my frames from Metropolitan Picture Framing (which is where these are from). Their website is http://www.metroframe.comhirschy75 wrote:
Awesome. Are the frames from AF?
I'm into the gallery style frames which are very simple in design and that's basically all they sell. So their selection of frame styles is limited but the quality is top notch. I think they cater mostly to galleries and museums.
Floating a Print
- goldenrose
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the reckless are out wrecking, the timid plead their pleas - robert hunter
Really great write up here. I have never tried floating a print and dont really plan to anytime soon. But impressive to see it done step by step like that.
ironjaiden wrote: "'Weener in June' is completely sold out, thanks for the interest"
Goldenrose, if I remember correctly the frame I chose is profile 101 in Maple. And I sand the frames and put my own finish on them. And you are correct once you put in the frame dimensions you select whatever else you want to add to the order and it is sized accordingly.goldenrose wrote:Thanks Chris for this awesome thread! On the website did you choose profile 115 for your frame choice/floating example? Once you pick the frame profile you just go through the tabs on top for the accessories and it will be correct for the frame size? Just curious, do you do 100% acid free archival? Even for the backing board?CHR1S wrote:No I order most of my frames from Metropolitan Picture Framing (which is where these are from). Their website is http://www.metroframe.comhirschy75 wrote:
Awesome. Are the frames from AF?
I'm into the gallery style frames which are very simple in design and that's basically all they sell. So their selection of frame styles is limited but the quality is top notch. I think they cater mostly to galleries and museums.
I have my own supply of archival mats and backing. And I cut all y own mats. We have a really nice wall mounted mat cutter.So I usually just order the frame and plexi frm them. And I do everything 100% archival.
- goldenrose
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Great thanks! It makes sense for me to buy the mats and backing locally and cut them myself - easy enough to do for floating.CHR1S wrote:Goldenrose, if I remember correctly the frame I chose is profile 101 in Maple. And I sand the frames and put my own finish on them. And you are correct once you put in the frame dimensions you select whatever else you want to add to the order and it is sized accordingly.goldenrose wrote:Thanks Chris for this awesome thread! On the website did you choose profile 115 for your frame choice/floating example? Once you pick the frame profile you just go through the tabs on top for the accessories and it will be correct for the frame size? Just curious, do you do 100% acid free archival? Even for the backing board?CHR1S wrote:No I order most of my frames from Metropolitan Picture Framing (which is where these are from). Their website is http://www.metroframe.comhirschy75 wrote:
Awesome. Are the frames from AF?
I'm into the gallery style frames which are very simple in design and that's basically all they sell. So their selection of frame styles is limited but the quality is top notch. I think they cater mostly to galleries and museums.
I have my own supply of archival mats and backing. And I cut all y own mats. We have a really nice wall mounted mat cutter.So I usually just order the frame and plexi frm them. And I do everything 100% archival.
the reckless are out wrecking, the timid plead their pleas - robert hunter
- piratesprayer
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pretty cool. thanks for the info
talkingdeads wrote:My nipples just did a back flip!
By moulding are you referring to the spacer? The spacers are the pieces of wood that separate the print and backing from the plexi. And in these frames I'm using a 1/2 inch spacer. I'll use a different size depending on the look I'm after or the size of the frame and/or art.leveronea wrote:How deep is that moulding?
I meant how deep is the total frame, in profile. Like how wide is the wood frame. I used to work for a picture frame company so I know what a spacer is, lol.
For example, how deep is the frame in profile. If this picture were your frame, what would the 1 1/4 measurement be?
For example, how deep is the frame in profile. If this picture were your frame, what would the 1 1/4 measurement be?
- goldenrose
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Hi Chris, I have a question. I have a print that is 32 X 24 with deckled edges. My feeling is that this print is too large to float. I'm just curious what you and others think. I'm probably going to go the matted route. Here's the print I'm talking about.
the reckless are out wrecking, the timid plead their pleas - robert hunter
Size doesn't really matter (when it come to floating a print). I've float much larger prints. You might have to use 3 or more hinges (rather than just two like I showed in my example). But I'm guessing 2 would be more than enough for the print you have in mind. And you definitely want to reinforce the hinges if it's a heavier paper stock. 32x24 is not an overly large size to float.
- goldenrose
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Thanks Chris, I guess the only thing that concerns me is it becoming wavy/buckling - without having a mat to keep it flat. Should I add additional paste/hinges to the middle and bottom of the print?CHR1S wrote:Size doesn't really matter (when it come to floating a print). I've float much larger prints. You might have to use 3 or more hinges (rather than just two like I showed in my example). But I'm guessing 2 would be more than enough for the print you have in mind. And you definitely want to reinforce the hinges if it's a heavier paper stock. 32x24 is not an overly large size to float.
the reckless are out wrecking, the timid plead their pleas - robert hunter
It all depends on the paper. Hopefully it's good quality paper and it's flat. The first thing you want to do is flatten the print an hope it stays flat. If it is a nice flat print then it will hang fine with just the hinges at the top. It's not recommended to put additional hinges on the bottom corners of the prints but I've done when I've had problems with prints NOT remaining flat. I've also taken filmoplast tape and looped it (adhesive side out) so it was like double stick tape. And then I dap the looped tape on a cotton rag cloth so it loses most of its tack. Basically I'm making it as tacky a post-it note so I can easily remove it without damaging the print. And then use those temporarily on the bottom corners of a floated print until the paper gets trained to lie flat.goldenrose wrote:Thanks Chris, I guess the only thing that concerns me is it becoming wavy/buckling - without having a mat to keep it flat. Should I add additional paste/hinges to the middle and bottom of the print?CHR1S wrote:Size doesn't really matter (when it come to floating a print). I've float much larger prints. You might have to use 3 or more hinges (rather than just two like I showed in my example). But I'm guessing 2 would be more than enough for the print you have in mind. And you definitely want to reinforce the hinges if it's a heavier paper stock. 32x24 is not an overly large size to float.
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- Tantric Poster Collector
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sweet, know i have a firm grasp of what to ask for when i go to the framer and get somehting floated.
thanks man. once i get a garage, i'll start framing my own stuff.
thanks man. once i get a garage, i'll start framing my own stuff.
- goldenrose
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Awesome, thanks for all the tips Chris. The print is on good quality paper and it flattened out very quickly when I took it out of the tube so I think it will be ok. Especially since it will take a while for me to get off my lazy butt and frame it .
the reckless are out wrecking, the timid plead their pleas - robert hunter