need help with tricky Float Mount

Share your pictures of framed art and discuss framing.

Postby nutter97 on Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:30 pm

lemme start by saying i've been framing my own stuff for a while now, probably close to 20-30 pieces framed thus far. Just standard- single and double mat pieces, nothing crazy. But I have a piece that needs to float. I've never done it before and I'm nervous as hell about it.

The artwork has the deckled edge, it's a rare piece so archival quality is a must. I researched it and wanted to do the ol' acid free linen hinge tape of the back of the artwork, and then mount to a mat board, then pack into a frame with mat-spacers-foam board. similar to this:

Image


so I was all set to do my first float mount, I pull the artwork out of my portfolio and run into a problem..... the artwork isn't laying flat. it's been stored flat in a safe environment for 4 years..wtf!!! anyways, if I were to move forward with my original plan, i think it will screw it up and possibly damaged the piece......

pick of artwork: Image


what are my options? acid free archival materials are a must. no tape or glue BS
nutter97
Art Connoisseur
 
Status: Active
Posts: 506
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2004 1:00 am

Postby fdi1001 on Wed Mar 14, 2018 8:59 am

I assume since you are using hinging tape you were planning on t-hinging. Normally that is just two points at the top, however, you can add one additional hinge at the bottom. That combined with gravity should get it mostly flat and since you will still only have it loosely mounted with three hinges you risk of waves is minimal. If you are using a musume mounting kit like this one, it is will be easy to adjust the 3rd hinge after a few months or years if you need to:
https://www.framedestination.com/framin ... g-kit.html
User avatar
fdi1001
Art Connoisseur
 
Status: Active
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 5:40 pm
Location: Dallas, TX

Postby CHR1S on Mon Mar 19, 2018 8:39 am

Most of the time when I am floating prints I will add a couple hinges at the bottom as well. Especially with larger prints. This helps for a couple reasons.....it helps the print lie flat all around, and if there is static build up on the plexi it keeps the print from getting pulled forward into the plexi. And given that I work in a museum and many of our works are lent out and need to travel the print is at less risk of being damaged is handled improperly.

I like to cut tiny slits at the top and bottom of the backing and pass the hinges through those slits rather than using a t-hinge. It takes a little more work and some precise measuring, but I find it holds the print better to the backing. The only draw back with cutting the slit openings in the backing is when you have a very thin paper. With thinner or translucent paper sometimes the slits can show through the paper.

A few years back I made a thread showing how this method is done:
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=62429&hilit=floating+a+print
User avatar
CHR1S
Art Connoisseur
 
Status: Active
Posts: 985
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:52 am

Postby jjttdw on Mon Mar 19, 2018 1:17 pm

I don't trust tape so I use Japanese rice paper hinges with wheat paste.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuxIFbcmIkE
User avatar
jjttdw
Art Expert
 
Status: Active
Posts: 4587
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:45 pm
NEWPORTS69 wrote:ive kept journal for very long time and ranked public restrooms because i srs hate using them, was working on an app but im not very smart

Postby fdi1001 on Tue Mar 20, 2018 12:15 pm

jjttdw wrote:I don't trust tape so I use Japanese rice paper hinges with wheat paste.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuxIFbcmIkE


There is a picture mounting kit for that:
https://www.framedestination.com/framin ... g-kit.html
User avatar
fdi1001
Art Connoisseur
 
Status: Active
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 5:40 pm
Location: Dallas, TX


Return to Framing Corner



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest