Framing Help/Advice Thread

Share your pictures of framed art and discuss framing.

Postby beerotan on Thu Dec 26, 2013 11:03 am

FramerDave wrote:
beerotan wrote:This is a little off topic for this forum, but as its where I've learned the entirety of my framing knowledge so far I'm not sure where else to ask: does anyone have some resources for framing textiles? I have a furoshiki (silk scarf-like textile, about 2' x 2') I want to put in a frame, but am unsure how to properly secure it to the mounting board. I can only come up with sewing it to another piece of fabric and then adhering that to the mouting board, but I'm concerned that would damage it. Anyone have any ideas or places they can point me to?


PPFA Guidelines for Framing Textiles and Needlework: http://www.pmai.org/online/core/orders/ ... rodid=1070

Written in part by yours truly.


Awesome, I might just pick this up. Thanks!
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Postby Hutwe on Thu Dec 26, 2013 3:44 pm

Question about mat boards.. Is it ok to use a general framing mat board on top of an acid free or conservation mat board? The Acid Free or conservation being the only one with actual contact with the print..
This being in the event that I can only find a decent color match with the general mat. Or am I just not looking at enough color samples of the A/F or Conservation?
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Postby Darkknight37 on Thu Dec 26, 2013 3:50 pm

Hutwe wrote:Question about mat boards.. Is it ok to use a general framing mat board on top of an acid free or conservation mat board? The Acid Free or conservation being the only one with actual contact with the print..
This being in the event that I can only find a decent color match with the general mat. Or am I just not looking at enough color samples of the A/F or Conservation?

I would think that's okay, but I'll let one of the pro's chime in on that one. For all I know the acid from the regular board is like the Alien blood and will burn through the frame :P
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Postby dasponyboy on Thu Dec 26, 2013 3:54 pm

I know having the acid free in contact with the paper is better but I still think mats "breathe" so it may not be good to have it sealed in there. Like DK said, I'll let one of the pros chime in...
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Postby golobulus on Thu Dec 26, 2013 4:00 pm

I wish I could find the picture, but someone posted a picture of a double or triple mat where one of the boards was not acid free and the others were. Over time, the core color exposed on the bevel darkened on the mat that was not acid free and didn't look good next to the original white cores of the acid free mats. That is one reason I would avoid mixing the two or avoid using non-acid free at all. I have been using the Crescent Rag Mats which are acid free and come in lots of colors but some colors are difficult to find online.
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Postby misterwhisper on Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:06 pm

Hutwe wrote:Question about mat boards.. Is it ok to use a general framing mat board on top of an acid free or conservation mat board? The Acid Free or conservation being the only one with actual contact with the print..
This being in the event that I can only find a decent color match with the general mat. Or am I just not looking at enough color samples of the A/F or Conservation?


FramerDave addressed this in another thread. Maybe he could elaborate, if necessary.

FramerDave wrote:
....This one isn't a matter of highly competent, it's Framing 101.

So I just got off the phone with Crescent to confirm. The 4004 doesn't show up, so as I suspected its either a bad number or long discontinued. The 4400 mats are all marbles, but the lady I spoke with confirmed that they are all from the decorative matboard line, are made from unpurified wood pulp and are NOT conservation quality.

And you know, even if it were a conservation quality mat you should still be concerned about the 3311, even if it's not against the art. Matboard is quite porous; if you were to look at it under a microscope it would look like a sponge. Any acidic products will still leach through it and affect the art, it will just take a while longer.
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Postby jamesgunter on Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:21 pm

Darkknight37 wrote:
Hutwe wrote:Question about mat boards.. Is it ok to use a general framing mat board on top of an acid free or conservation mat board? The Acid Free or conservation being the only one with actual contact with the print..
This being in the event that I can only find a decent color match with the general mat. Or am I just not looking at enough color samples of the A/F or Conservation?

I would think that's okay, but I'll let one of the pro's chime in on that one. For all I know the acid from the regular board is like the Alien blood and will burn through the frame :P


the core of the top mat will turn yellow/brown over the next few years and look bad
Last edited by jamesgunter on Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby jamesgunter on Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:27 pm

golobulus wrote:I wish I could find the picture, but someone posted a picture of a double or triple mat where one of the boards was not acid free and the others were. Over time, the core color exposed on the bevel darkened on the mat that was not acid free and didn't look good next to the original white cores of the acid free mats. That is one reason I would avoid mixing the two or avoid using non-acid free at all. I have been using the Crescent Rag Mats which are acid free and come in lots of colors but some colors are difficult to find online.



Image
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Postby FramerDave on Fri Dec 27, 2013 12:21 pm

Well, I see my work here has been done.

As others have said quite well, no, it is NOT ok to try and isolate a nasty-ass cheap board from the art by placing a conservation-quality mat under it. If you were to look at a piece of matboard under a microscope it would look like a kitchen scrubby pad. They're very porous and do not serve very well at all as a barrier to acid migration.

Besides that it just looks ghetto. Look at the picture above, compare that nice clean white bevel to the nasty brown one.
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Postby Hutwe on Fri Dec 27, 2013 1:28 pm

Awesome, I'm glad I didn't attempt to go that route. Guess Darkknight was right :P I have some more reading to do I suppose.
Darkknight37 wrote:the acid from the regular board is like the Alien blood and will burn through the frame :P
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Postby leary411 on Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:15 pm

Hi guys,

So I will be framing my Dan MCcarthy "the day everything became nothing 2" in 2014 and wanted to know if there was any word to the wise on what kind of glass to use for Glow in the Dark prints. Can I use UV Plexi, Truview Museum glass? Thoughts? Not sure what works best to soak up the light but not damage the print if that makes sense.
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Postby iambillyg on Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:42 pm

leary411 wrote:Hi guys,

So I will be framing my Dan MCcarthy "the day everything became nothing 2" in 2014 and wanted to know if there was any word to the wise on what kind of glass to use for Glow in the Dark prints. Can I use UV Plexi, Truview Museum glass? Thoughts? Not sure what works best to soak up the light but not damage the print if that makes sense.

I've used museum glass on both, 'The Day Everything Became Nothing' and 'Wish You Were Here' and both glow great. A lot of people worry that museum glass will not allow the prints to charge, but it's not the case.
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Postby leary411 on Sun Dec 29, 2013 1:01 pm

iambillyg wrote:I've used museum glass on both, 'The Day Everything Became Nothing' and 'Wish You Were Here' and both glow great. A lot of people worry that museum glass will not allow the prints to charge, but it's not the case.


Thanks !
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Postby peacedog on Sun Dec 29, 2013 1:08 pm

iambillyg wrote:A lot of people worry that museum glass will not allow the prints to charge, but it's not the case.


I have demonstrated several times that glow is definitely effected by the UV coating on glass. While it will not stop the print for glowing, the effect is definitely lessened. There's a thread with pics around here somewhere....
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Postby iambillyg on Sun Dec 29, 2013 2:24 pm

peacedog wrote:
iambillyg wrote:A lot of people worry that museum glass will not allow the prints to charge, but it's not the case.


I have demonstrated several times that glow is definitely effected by the UV coating on glass. While it will not stop the print for glowing, the effect is definitely lessened. There's a thread with pics around here somewhere....

Ah. The only GID prints I have, that are framed, have been from Dan. Not sure if it's his printing methods, but the prints seem to get a good charge, even behind museum and without a direct light source on it. Could have a different effect on other GID prints, I suppose.

Leary, I'd definitely trust Corey's expertise on this. :notworthy:
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