Framing Help/Advice Thread

Share your pictures of framed art and discuss framing.

Postby misterwhisper on Thu Feb 25, 2016 5:25 pm

iambillyg wrote:Does anyone have a source for purchasing colored spacers and deep frames for floating?



Hi Billy! I was recently shopping for deep frames and ended up ordering one with a 2 1/4" rabbet from Web Picture Frames. Their quality is up there with Frame Destination and American Frame and the prices are decent. As a bonus, they also sell TruVue Optium (not decently priced, but good stuff). Available here: http://www.webpictureframes.com/ Here's the finished frameup, cross posted from the "framed stuff" thread:

Image

I've not been able to find colored spacers but have used Frametek's FrameSpace Clear Spacers; they're transparent so they can be filled with colored matboard. I used them in this project, color matched to the accent mat: viewtopic.php?f=31&t=80968
I bought them here:

http://www.artright.com/our-online-shop ... ngths.html

However, if you're doing a really deep frame, you're probably better off making your own spacers. The Richter above required 1.5" spacers, I just cut them from basswood and painted them. You can also cut them from foamcore and front them with the colored matboard of your choice, that's probably the easiest and most cost effective way to do it.
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Postby yupignome on Mon Feb 29, 2016 7:22 am

So I've been reading a lot (a lot...) about framing, matting, mounting. My intention was to buy the materials and start framing myself, but I felt getting my first print professionally framed to be the best option; with the secondary objective to snag information out of the professional framer so I could do it myself in the future.

So I took my first Mondo print (The Thing by Sam Wolfe Connelly & Jay Shaw) to get framed with a mat (since you don't want glass directly touching the print). The owner said this was true - glass can adhere to prints, with the caveat that it depends on the print (paper stock? ink?). One look, or maybe one touch, of the print and she said I wouldn't need to mat this. Uneasy, I asked about spacers. She was against spacers, noting that she was reframing a job where someone used spacers and it damaged/warped the print. After all I read, this made me wary and I told her to go ahead and mat it anyway. She was also 100% against acrylic.

I'm not quite sure what to believe here, especially since I see others posting pictures of their prints, unmatted, possibly without spacers. Framing my other prints would definitely be cheaper without having to use mats, but I want to ensure they're cared for and reversibly framed. Also, if using spacers, say with a 36 x 24 print in a 36 x 24 frame, how do you mount to the backing? Spacers can't be expected to hold a larger print like this without sagging or possible damage. I'm reminded of the college dropout at Michael's hassling me, "Uhhh, you have to drymount if you don't use mats." Left Michael's and never looked back. Never tell me what I can or can't do!

/walloftext
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Postby yupignome on Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:06 pm

yupignome wrote:Also, if using spacers, say with a 36 x 24 print in a 36 x 24 frame, how do you mount to the backing? Spacers can't be expected to hold a larger print like this without sagging or possible damage. I'm reminded of the college dropout at Michael's hassling me, "Uhhh, you have to drymount if you don't use mats." Left Michael's and never looked back. Never tell me what I can or can't do!


Found a good answer to my spacers question here if anyone's interested: viewtopic.php?p=3103874#p3103874
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Postby JBFrame on Fri Mar 04, 2016 11:29 am

I would be a little cautious about going back to that framer again. 1st off, if you correctly use the spacers, as I described in the post you noted, there should be no waving of the print, again, the magic word is should. I have framed 100s of prints using the edge to edge method with no mat and have not had a problem with waving. If you reside in a high humidity area there may be a chance of waving but again if the print is able to expand and contract there should be no problem. 2nd Acrylic is a fantastic product. The actual clarity of framing acrylic is clearer than glass. The only problem with acrylic, unless you use Optimum Acrylic, is that it scratches easier than glass. I tell all my customers that use acrylic to use a clean mico fiber cloth that is slightly dampened with warm water to wipe the acrylic to get the dust off or to clean the finger prints off. I like acrylic because in large prints and posters the weight is about 1/2 of glass and glass can easily break when you get to the larger sizes. Glass is only 2mm to 2.5mm thick and with flexing it can shatter easily. Another thing about acrylic is that humidity is less likely to build up inside the art package than with glass. Glass is thinner and heats and cools off quicker causing humidity to build up inside the package whereas acrylic heats and cools much slower and therefor the humidity is more likely to not have a foothold to start building up inside the package. Just my $0.02 and I'm sure there are others that have useful information on this subject - hope my info helps a little. Joe
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Postby CrazyBread on Wed Mar 16, 2016 6:52 pm

Hey guys,

I just hammered a couple wall hangers to hang a framed print and one of them concerns me.

https://i.imgur.com/hTetYn1.jpg

As you can see, the drywall is curved under the nail. Will the wall hanger tear down over time? No stub behind the chosen spots. The framed print is about 32" x 42" landscape.

Here's what the original spot looks like. I pushed in the drywall lol. To be fair, I didn't completely hammered the nail in. I stopped halfway when I noticed the hole was bigger than what it was supposed to be.

https://i.imgur.com/BN1F6r8.jpg
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Postby KSUvet on Sun May 15, 2016 2:45 pm

Framers, how about some advice on filet assembly? I'm thinking about trying one on a piece. My main question is what you do for the back side. I saw a Larson Juhl video where they used foamcore to make up the space/depth and then applied frame sealing aluminum tape. That doesn't seem that great to me, but maybe it's acceptable. The only other thing I can see would be to have another bottom mat cut to the edge of the filet. That seems good if you cut the bottom mat larger and want it to show, but I thought it might not look good if it's even with the filet. I guess you'd also have to choose between a black or white bevel showing.
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Postby peacedog on Tue May 17, 2016 1:45 pm

KSUvet wrote:Framers, how about some advice on filet assembly? I'm thinking about trying one on a piece. My main question is what you do for the back side. I saw a Larson Juhl video where they used foamcore to make up the space/depth and then applied frame sealing aluminum tape. That doesn't seem that great to me, but maybe it's acceptable. The only other thing I can see would be to have another bottom mat cut to the edge of the filet. That seems good if you cut the bottom mat larger and want it to show, but I thought it might not look good if it's even with the filet. I guess you'd also have to choose between a black or white bevel showing.

We'd use an acid-free 2-ply collar cut with a reverse bevel to just shy of the edge of the fillet. The aluminum tape will create a barrier where it covers, but I wouldn't want even the very edge of the fillet actually touching the print. And not sure I'd want aluminum tape touching my art, doesn't aluminum rubbing leave a mark? 2-ply will give you a tiny bit of lift away from the art as well.
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Postby KSUvet on Tue May 17, 2016 10:36 pm

peacedog wrote:
KSUvet wrote:Framers, how about some advice on filet assembly? I'm thinking about trying one on a piece. My main question is what you do for the back side. I saw a Larson Juhl video where they used foamcore to make up the space/depth and then applied frame sealing aluminum tape. That doesn't seem that great to me, but maybe it's acceptable. The only other thing I can see would be to have another bottom mat cut to the edge of the filet. That seems good if you cut the bottom mat larger and want it to show, but I thought it might not look good if it's even with the filet. I guess you'd also have to choose between a black or white bevel showing.

We'd use an acid-free 2-ply collar cut with a reverse bevel to just shy of the edge of the fillet. The aluminum tape will create a barrier where it covers, but I wouldn't want even the very edge of the fillet actually touching the print. And not sure I'd want aluminum tape touching my art, doesn't aluminum rubbing leave a mark? 2-ply will give you a tiny bit of lift away from the art as well.

Yeah, that sounds more like what I was thinking, and I agree on the tape. What about the gap created by the depth of the filet? Do you put another mat between the top mat and the bottom 2 ply?
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Postby peacedog on Wed May 18, 2016 12:53 am

KSUvet wrote:
peacedog wrote:
KSUvet wrote:Framers, how about some advice on filet assembly? I'm thinking about trying one on a piece. My main question is what you do for the back side. I saw a Larson Juhl video where they used foamcore to make up the space/depth and then applied frame sealing aluminum tape. That doesn't seem that great to me, but maybe it's acceptable. The only other thing I can see would be to have another bottom mat cut to the edge of the filet. That seems good if you cut the bottom mat larger and want it to show, but I thought it might not look good if it's even with the filet. I guess you'd also have to choose between a black or white bevel showing.

We'd use an acid-free 2-ply collar cut with a reverse bevel to just shy of the edge of the fillet. The aluminum tape will create a barrier where it covers, but I wouldn't want even the very edge of the fillet actually touching the print. And not sure I'd want aluminum tape touching my art, doesn't aluminum rubbing leave a mark? 2-ply will give you a tiny bit of lift away from the art as well.

Yeah, that sounds more like what I was thinking, and I agree on the tape. What about the gap created by the depth of the filet? Do you put another mat between the top mat and the bottom 2 ply?

Yes, you'll need some build up in there.
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Postby jamesgunter on Fri May 20, 2016 10:14 pm

what is a good online framing site that has a decent frame mock up generator? that will preferably let you do multiple openings. just want to quickly see what something would look like
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Postby lemtar999 on Sat May 21, 2016 12:30 am

Anyway to frame a 30x40 print without a mat? I dont want to dry mount it and I think its too big to frame without a mat.
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Postby J3D1 on Sat May 21, 2016 4:20 am

Posted in wrong place before:

Finally got my greasey paws on a pair of Ralph Steadman originals.
Never had any experience framing pieces as old as this so would really appreciate any advice on choice of mat and frame to suit.

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Postby jamesgunter on Sat May 21, 2016 9:39 pm

lemtar999 wrote:Anyway to frame a 30x40 print without a mat? I dont want to dry mount it and I think its too big to frame without a mat.


you can frame it without a mat in a 30X40 frame, it may get a little wavy though. if you hinged it to the foamcore it would help, but you'd have to put tape on it.
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Postby kember on Mon Aug 15, 2016 5:02 am

Hey folks,

Bought my gf a piece by an artist she loves, it's not really my bag but due to a big delay in the shipping thanks to the flooding in France, the artist sent the original drawing of the print as well, it's super minimal, single line stuff so quite basic...

Image

The drawing is almost exactly the same, if a little wobbly - would like to get them framed but not sure how - worth getting them in separate frames or coming up with something clever to get them framed together?
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Postby blase on Fri Sep 09, 2016 11:15 am

This was probably asked before but I haven't been able to find an answer. I'm attempting to frame a large, expensive print for he first time and don't want t mess it up. Is hobby lobby glass and mat ok to use? I'm fairly confident I can put it together myself but not sure about ordering mat online as it's hard to tell the color/look. Is the mat HL sells of good quality for long term conservation or should I not trust them. I got a quote for museum glass of $130 for 40"x25" and could use their 40% off. I'm wondering if it's worth it to get the glass from them even if I take it to a framer for the mat and assembly ( already have the frame).
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