Mounting

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Postby Mocktm on Thu Jan 21, 2016 10:03 am

Just curious if you need to worry about mounting a print to a backboard if there is no matting involved. I've been told both ways. Are spacers and a acid free backboard adequate without any tape?
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Postby CHR1S on Tue Jan 26, 2016 6:11 pm

Lot's of variables to answering this question. What size is the print? What is the paper stock? Is the print valuable (is it worth getting mounted properly).

You could frame this any number of ways without using an over-mat. You could simply sandwich the print between a piece of acrylic and it's backing (not use any spacers). You could also use spacers so the acrylic would not be resting on the print, though the spacers could be. So essentially the spacers are holding the print in place. Depending on how much pressure the spacers put on the paper and how fragile the paper is, you could end up with depressions along the outer edge of the print. Or you could mount the print to a backing, float the print and use spacers so there is nothing resting on the surface of the print. You could also mount the print to backing and use spacers on the outer edge of the print, but because the print is mounted you don't need the spacers to put pressure on the print.
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Postby CaptNemo on Tue Jan 26, 2016 6:50 pm

You could use those little photo corners, but they may hurt more than help if the print is 24x36.

If the room the print will be displayed in has a well controlled climate (temp + humidity), the print can be against the glazing, or framed with spacers, without harming it in the short term. Don't press the backing tightly - just enough to hold things in the frame. But if you have rapid changes in temperature and/or humidity, matting is the way to go. Sealing the backing + mat + print + glass with acid-free tape can also help, apparently.

http://www.frametek.com/HTML/Articles/Buckling.html

http://forum.expressobeans.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=155588

http://forum.expressobeans.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=127954

http://forum.expressobeans.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=151111
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Postby CHR1S on Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:41 pm

CaptNemo wrote:If the room the print will be displayed in has a well controlled climate (temp + humidity), the print can be against the glazing, or framed with spacers, without harming it in the short term. Don't press the backing tightly - just enough to hold things in the frame. But if you have rapid changes in temperature and/or humidity, matting is the way to go.


If you're using GLASS for glazing you have to be concerned about humidity or "glass sweating." But if you use ACRYLIC that is not a concern.
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Postby Mocktm on Fri Feb 05, 2016 2:20 pm

Thanks all. I guess really it just boils down to this: I don't want to print in direct contact to with the glass obviously, but do I need to have the framer fix it to the backboard anyway, or is it fine just sitting there with the spacers? I've read this can cause waviness overtime, but I'm thinking it should be okay as long as the backboard isn't put on too tightly and the print has some space to contract and expand...right?
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Postby Mocktm on Fri Feb 05, 2016 2:36 pm

Just found this: Think I'm good. Cheers!

This is how I do it in my shop. I make the whole frame exactly 1/8" (1/16" on all sides) larger than the print. Reason for the 1/8" larger instead of 1/4" is the print has to set on the spacer and if you give it more than 1/16" on all sides it will drop in against the glass. If you give it less than the 1/16" on all sides you won't have room for normal expansion and contraction due to the climate causing the print my start bunching up (waving). Personally I like the Econo Space - it is a hollow plastic spacer tube. The reason I like this spacer is because there is a little flex to the spacer because of it being hollow. The solid plastic spacer doesn't flex/give and it may cause the print to be held too tightly causing bunching up (waving) during the expansion and contraction process of paper. Lay the glass inside the frame and carefully measure the spacer cutting all 4 side to fit the glass exactly. Attach the spacer to the glass and burnish the spacer for a good hold. Carefully lay the print onto the adhesive free side of the spacer - remember - no adhesive on the print - the adhesive side of the spacer is stuck to the glass. I then carefully lay the AF foam core onto the print - I do not attach the print, I want the print to have room to expand and contract. I use a point driver to hold the foam core in place, BUT VERY IMPORTANT, place 4 ply mat board spacer between the point driver and the foam core when driving the points. Remove the mat board as you go leaving a little space between the point and the foam core. Using the mat board as a spacer between the foam core and the point driver is to assure that the foam core is not too tight against the print, again the print has to have room to move. I drive points about every 4 to 6 inches. Attach the dust cover and hanging system and you are ready to hang it.

Anyway, this is how I do it in my shop, I'm sure you will get other recommendations which may also work just fine. This is how I do mine and it is tried and true and works nicely if you follow these steps. I hopes this helps.
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