Need advice restoring flat file wood cabinet project

Information on shipping, storing and repairing your art, plus your reviews on products for art collecting, making, storing, etc..
User avatar
rockbridge
Art Expert
Posts: 2369
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 11:10 pm
Location: Austin, TX

Fri Mar 08, 2013 7:32 pm

Looks to be a combination of oak veneer (plywood) and oak hardwood. Minwax is your friend. :)
User avatar
DjPhaze
Art Connoisseur
Posts: 193
Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:07 pm

Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:33 am

rockbridge wrote:Looks to be a combination of oak veneer (plywood) and oak hardwood. Minwax is your friend. :)
What type of minwax should i use?
User avatar
DjPhaze
Art Connoisseur
Posts: 193
Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:07 pm

Sat Mar 09, 2013 3:24 pm

Anybody know what sand paper grit I should use?
User avatar
BlakeAronson
Flipper
Posts: 8579
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:00 am
Location: Long Beach, CA
Contact:

Mon Mar 11, 2013 2:08 pm

areas where it is plywood/veneer, try stand out the damaged with something light like 220, if it doesnt remove the flaws after a bit of sanding you can drop down to 180/150, you can do 120 but i wouldnt do too much, it all depends on how thick that top veneer layer is. in the sections that are solid hardwood, you can go to town with sanding.

the pictures you showed of the screw hole and chunks missing, those areas appear to be the plywood. the top of the cabinet, where the edges have been rounded and worn appear to be solid wood. I don't really see any major scratches in the pictures you've posted, so a good light sanding should clean it up and prep it good for stain.

The areas where chunks are missing, you need can leave them as is or fill them in with wood filler/epoxy. they can be stained but of course it does not have the appearance of wood since there is no grain. if you're patient/anal/skilled enough you can faux paint these repaired areas (the screw hole doesnt really need it, but a chipped out chunk like that would be noticeable with just stained wood filler). Also another tip, the darker the stain the less noticeable the wood filler repaired areas.

for best staining results use a sanding sealer after sanding, and do a light scuff when it dries or as directed on the product you buy (i've used zinser bullseye sanding sealer with good results). basically this preps the grains or the wood so when you stain it takes it all evenly, otherwise with some woods you risk it getting darker in some areas and lighter in others, the sanding sealer helps keep it more uniform.

good luck.
8=====D~~~~
User avatar
DjPhaze
Art Connoisseur
Posts: 193
Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:07 pm

Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:34 pm

BlakeAronson wrote:areas where it is plywood/veneer, try stand out the damaged with something light like 220, if it doesnt remove the flaws after a bit of sanding you can drop down to 180/150, you can do 120 but i wouldnt do too much, it all depends on how thick that top veneer layer is. in the sections that are solid hardwood, you can go to town with sanding.

the pictures you showed of the screw hole and chunks missing, those areas appear to be the plywood. the top of the cabinet, where the edges have been rounded and worn appear to be solid wood. I don't really see any major scratches in the pictures you've posted, so a good light sanding should clean it up and prep it good for stain.

The areas where chunks are missing, you need can leave them as is or fill them in with wood filler/epoxy. they can be stained but of course it does not have the appearance of wood since there is no grain. if you're patient/anal/skilled enough you can faux paint these repaired areas (the screw hole doesnt really need it, but a chipped out chunk like that would be noticeable with just stained wood filler). Also another tip, the darker the stain the less noticeable the wood filler repaired areas.

for best staining results use a sanding sealer after sanding, and do a light scuff when it dries or as directed on the product you buy (i've used zinser bullseye sanding sealer with good results). basically this preps the grains or the wood so when you stain it takes it all evenly, otherwise with some woods you risk it getting darker in some areas and lighter in others, the sanding sealer helps keep it more uniform.

good luck.

Thank you very much. You been very helpful!
Post Reply